Soo-perior September

Year 8(!) of the Superior September tradition rolled around again and it was time to get back to The Big Lake (on Twitter, Lake Superior is the GLOAT- Greatest Lake of All Time).  Every year since we have lived in Wisconsin, we take a fall weekend trip to explore the Lake Superior shoreline at a different spot.  This year, it was time for the eastern Upper Peninsula of Michigan to visit Sault (pronounced SOO) St. Marie and Whitefish Bay.  We even saw Canada (socially distanced!).

We got ourselves together and headed up to the UP on the first Friday of October.  It was a nice fall day and we had to stop for some patio drinks at Upper Hand Brewery in Escanaba, MI.  The drive north takes us up the full length of the bay of Green Bay, then east along the north shore of Lake Michigan proper, and then north across the peninsula to the town of Brimley where we would be staying on the Superior shoreline.  We arrived to our rental just as it was getting dark to check in.  Next was a whitefish Friday night fish fry at a bar across the street called the Cozy Inn.  Food was great and we caught it just in time before the kitchen closed.  Time to rest up for touristy fun and adjust to the temporary return to the Eastern Time Zone.

Saturday morning, we headed east about 20 minutes to the city of Sault St. Marie, MI.  Here, the St. Mary's River separates Michigan from Ontario, Canada, and is the only route for ships (Great Lakes ships are called "Lakers" whereas rarer ships coming from sea are called "Salties") to enter or depart the waters of Lake Superior.  We started with Original Soo Locks Boat Tours to experience the Soo Locks, the engineering marvel that allows these ships to traverse around the St. Mary's Rapids.  Ships have to rise or drop about 20 ft. while in the lock depending on the direction they are heading all based on a gate system and gravity/natural movement of water.  Smaller vessels can traverse the locks (including our tour boat), but the big draw are the hundreds to thousand-foot freighters and superlakers that come through the locks, sometimes with only 2 ft. of clearance between the vessel and walls of the lock.  The US Army Corps of Engineers has a visitor center and observation platform there where people can watch the ships pass though up close. 

Our boat tour moved upbound through the Locks and took a big loop around the Upper St. Mary's River looking at some landmarks including a historic hydroelectric power plant, a new, bigger lock under construction, and Algoma Steel production industrial site on the Canadian side.  We then returned downbound through the locks and toured the Canadian side of the river, which Scott commented looked a lot like Europe.  Due to COVID travel restrictions, we were not allowed to enter Canada (there is a vehicle bridge over the St. Mary's) without producing a negative test, so we had to settle for a distant view and a few waves to (presumably) Canadians while the tour passed by the sister city of Sault St. Marie, ON.  We also had to scramble a couple of times to turn our phones off since we were close enough to ping off Canadian cell towers!

Original Soo Locks Boat Tour dock

St Mary's Falls Hydroelectric Power Plant

Traversing the Soo Locks upbound (up to Lake Superior)

Algoma Steel in Ontario

Lock gates closing while traversing downbound to St. Mary's River level

The Soo Locks staff has the logistical challenge to manage both up and downbound traffic through the same locks and which lock a ship uses depending on availability and total length of the ship.  In the upper photo, the Laker in the background is in the Poe Lock and the tour boat in the foreground is in the shorter MacArthur Lock.

After the boat tour, we had to have lunch at Soo Locks Brewing Company of course and enjoyed sandwiches and brews on the patio.  Next we checked out the Soo Locks Visitor Center and watched some ships using the Locks.  It was kind of addicting at times to just "wait for one more."  It took each ship about 30 minutes or so to navigate through, but it was cool to watch them rise and fall and see the crews working.  Rain was in the forecast so we headed to the Museum Ship Valley Camp, a floating museum located right on a retired freighter.  Several floors of Great Lakes maritime exhibits kept us busy while it rained pretty hard.  A stop at Superior Coast Brewery for drinks rounded out the day in Sault St. Marie.  We swung by Superior Pizza and Subs in Brimley on the way back to the rental to take out a pizza for dinner, which was incredible!  Turns out it was their last weekend open for the season, so we lucked out.

Museum Ship Valley Camp

It rained most of the night and was expected to continue off and on through Sunday.  In the morning, we took an auto tour to the west along the Whitefish Bay National Forest Scenic Byway along Lake Superior and through and the Bay Mills Indian Community.  We stopped by Point Iroquois Lighthouse, several overlooks and beaches along Lake Superior, and at Mission Hill Cemetery and Overlook above Spectacle and Monocle Lakes.  Next was a short walk around part of Monocle Lake and through the campground which was closed for the season.  The weather was still iffy so we didn't want to start a longer hike as originally planned.  We went back to Superior Pizza for a quick ice cream snack and then back to Sault St. Marie in the afternoon to watch some more ships at the visitor center.  I didn't realize there is a fairly large Amish community also in that area of the UP and the drive was scenic through many farms.  We took a spin through some gift shops and had dinner at Maloney's Alley Irish Pub before calling it a night.

Point Iroquois Lighthouse

Whitefish Bay, Hiawatha National Forest

Spectacle Lake, from Mission Point Cemetery & Overlook, Bay Mills Indian Community

Monday morning was cloudy but at least the rain had stopped.  We packed up and hit the road to start making our way back.  Our waylay on the return trip was a couple of stops near Manistique, MI on Lake Michigan- Seul Choix Point Lighthouse (pronounced "Sis-shwa" or "Only Choice" in French) and Kitch-iti-kipi or Big Spring located at Palms Book State Park.  The lighthouse, said to be haunted, had closed to the public for the seasonal tours but had some decorations outside for their big Halloween haunted tours later in the month.  Very cool (and windy!) spot that we had entirely to ourselves.  Big Spring is an extremely clear and consistent temperature pool with a raft (including a glass window on the bottom) that visitors can pull along the surface to check out the springs and the fish and wildlife.  Luckily we caught it an off time since it was mid-morning on Monday- it was definitely really unique and worth seeing, but I imagine the lines get very long to load the packed raft with tourists.  We even had a few dogs that rode the raft with their people and of course didn't get along with each other in those cramped quarters.  We stopped in Escanaba and picked up Dobber's Pasties (pronounced PAST ees- think portable chicken pot pie) for lunch, which we ate at a roadside picnic area on the bay of Green Bay enjoying a more little beach time.

Seul Choix Point Lighthouse

Kitch-iti-kipi. Palms Book State Park

 

Another great trip to the Yoop and successful Soo-perior September adventure. 

*On the lands of the Bay Mills Indian Community, and Odawa and Anishinaabe peoples:  https://native-land.ca/ 

No Coat November

We thought the camping season was over with our late season trip up to the Porkies, but Mother Nature gave us a treat in early November that could not be missed.  Record breaking warmth- multiple days with highs in the 60s (and lows in the mid-40s!!) arrived during the first week of November.  That week would have been one of my busiest field work weeks of the year with our annual wild rice seeding, but we moved it up this year for, get this...better weather.  Very funny to miss it by a week.  Yes, it was colder the week before when we seeded, but at least there was no ice!

The first weekend in November presented an opportunity for some recreation and excellent camping weather with temperatures more like September than November.  We decided to head up the road to Door County with bikes and camping gear for a last hurrah.  The first stop was a 12 mile bike ride on the Ahnapee State Trail, a rail to trail which we haven't visited in quite awhile.  It was odd to be riding in a thin long sleeved t-shirt with all the leaves down, but it was great- not too many people on the trail and great views throughout.  After biking, we visited Bridge Up Brewing and Sonny's Pizza in Sturgeon Bay for a beverage on the patio and take out Greek deep dish pizza, which was excellent.  Also caught the draw bridge going up for a boat to pass through!  We arrived at the Peninsula State Park Tennison Bay campground next, and there was no problem getting a walk up campsite for 2 nights- and in fact, we pretty much had the immediate area to ourselves.  A camping dream come true!  That was also a little weird given that Peninsula is the most visited state park in Wisconsin and the hundreds of campsites are usually completely full throughout the summer.  Navigating the "winter camping" procedures was a little more challenging (self-registering, which restrooms are open, where to get the heated "winter water"), but it got sorted out eventually.  Of course the sun sets at about 4:15 PM, so we got things set up and took a quick ride down to the bay to watch the sunset, then it was dinner and campfire in the dark before early bedtime.  It was very comfortable sleeping with such nice temperatures, but we did have some raccoon visitors to the campsite who tried to open the truck cap to no avail!

Pizza and brews in Sturgeon Bay

Tennison Bay campground and sunset over Green Bay, Peninsula State Park

The next day we hit the bike trail along the Sunset Bike Route in the morning to get ahead of any crowds.  It was fantastic- nearly no one else encountered on the trails, gorgeous views, and a little bit of challenging hilly terrain (yes, flatlanders say things like that!).  We stopped in at the Eagle Bluff lighthouse on the route, which was boarded up for the season.  After biking we stopped at the newly constructed accessible observation tower (which Scott had a hand in acquiring the wood to build through his work) and took a ride further north on "the Island" (we previously learned this is local vernacular for the Door Peninsula north of Sturgeon Bay, which is technically an island because you have to cross a bridge over the shipping channel).  We stopped at Island Orchard Cider's takeout window to buy a few bottles of very delicious hard cider made from apples from Washington Island.  So good!  Next was a walk at The Nature Conservancy's Mink River Estuary Preserve, which we passed haphazardly but had never been to before.  We weren't really prepared and didn't know where exactly to go, but it was a nice hike anyway and we saw a few people out on the trails.  Next was a beer break at Door County Brewing Company over on the lake side (Lake Michigan proper) in Bailey's Harbor.  Interestingly, the weather was much cooler and cloudy over there (lake effect clouds), which really dropped the temperature for sitting comfortably outside.  They did have a nice fire going so that helped a little.  One group of bikers were in shorts and were absolutely freezing so they didn't stay long.  After a bit, we picked up takeout dinner from our favorite restaurant Coyote Roadhouse and took sandwiches back to the campsite for early dinner.  Another sunset, and another long dark night (with less raccoon activity).

Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, Peninsula State Park

Nicolet Bay, Peninsula State Park

Sunset at Tennison Bay, Green Bay, Lake Michigan

One of the interesting experiences camping at Peninsula was the habituated wildlife.  These are packed campgrounds and the wildlife seems to know that people are suckers for feeding them or they can easily steal food and trash.  Before we left, one of the resident turkeys literally walked right up to us, and got really excited when I moved a grocery bag around thinking I was feeding him.  I had to chase him off to get him away from the truck.  A red breasted nuthatch also flew up to me and landed right on my finger the day before (Snow White moment!), and several chickadees hung around regularly.  While it's cool to see wildlife up close, this is a bad sign for the animals.  They become so dependent on people that they don't learn to take care of themselves.  Plus it's dangerous such that they could unintentionally hurt someone or be hurt themselves.  I hope they make it through the tough winter.

Tennison Bay campground's way too friendly turkey.

The next morning, it was up early to pack up and head home.  What a nice reprieve and a more positive camping trip for the end of the season!

On the tribal lands of the Pottawatomi, Menominee, and Odawa peoples. https://native-land.ca/ 

Jersey does Titletown

Mom and Dad came out to visit us for a long weekend at the end of September.  We had a busy and fun weekend that included a Packers tailgate, antiquing and cheese shopping, day trip to Door County parks and shops including brunch at Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant, a tour of the UW-Green Bay campus, a visit to the Green Bay Botanical Garden, and a trip to Shawano County (pronounced SHAWN oh), the barn quilt capital of Wisconsin, for sightseeing and the Sunday flea market and car show.  And no visit is complete without a trip to Culver's for lunch and ice cream.  We also had to work in a traditional Wisconsin Friday night fish fry dinner, and none other than Jordy Nelson walks in with his family and is seated right behind us.  Awesome!  The dinner got even more fun when a lady at a table across from us bet me $5 that I couldn't finish the meatloaf dinner I ordered, so I looked up and told her, "you're on!"  I did finish my dinner and she insisted on giving me the $5 to make good on the deal.  I paid it forward and bought a tin of boy scout popcorn at our next shopping stop.  Always a lot of fun to show Mom and Dad a good time in Titletown!

Go Pack Go!  High rollers tailgating at Lambeau- we left just before the game started and made it back home in time to watch on TV as everyone got evacuated out of the bowl for a thunderstorm.

Late season at the Green Bay Botanical Garden 

Views of Lake Michigan from Cave Point County Park, Door County 

Onward Phoenix!

I have neglected the blog again.  It's been a very busy spring this year, including some travel (2x) back to the east coast for the first time since the holidays for a family visit at the Jersey shore and a trip to Maryland for Scott's friend's wedding. And probably the biggest piece of news is that I have a new job!  I started in mid-June as a research specialist at University of Wisconsin-Green Bay (Go Phoenix!).  I am coordinating several fish and wildlife habitat restoration projects in the Bay of Green Bay, which I will share more about when I have more details and cool photos.  These projects will get me back out into "the field" (i.e., what we conservation people call outside) more often, but it will be more like knee (or waist) deep in the bay and also driving a boat.  Awesome!  I also get to work with many of the same people from my previous jobs and I had a short stint at the university about a year ago as an instructor, so at least everything isn't completely new.  Very excited to have work in my area of expertise and to be back in the university setting, but needless to say it has been an adjustment back into the full time work force and trying to keep up with summer activities, classes at the gym, gardening, and keeping Teddy busy!

In May, I had the change to welcome my first visitor to WI besides my parents!  My college friend Rosie flew out to visit for Memorial Day weekend.  We had a great time touring Lambeau Field, visiting one of the largest dairy farms in WI (thanks to Rosie's dairy connections!), and auto touring/lighthouse touring/wine tasting the Lake Michigan shoreline.  We even stopped at a winery we had not been to yet called Cold Country Vines & Wines in Kewaunee- it was great and we will definitely be back!  It was wonderful to catch up with Rosie, and to "share" Wisconsin with her.  We pretty much covered it: dairy farming, cheese and wine tasting, microbreweries, lakeshore, lighthouses, and even lunch at Culver's (can't miss that!).  Whew!  Now that we have been here for just shy of 3 years, we know enough to be half decent tour guides.  Book your trip today, great rates (i.e., free) and we have lots of openings in the schedule (....as in no bookings until Mom and Dad come back out in late summer).  Thanks for visiting, Rosie!

 Nice off-season afternoon at Lambeau

Nittany Lions experience the Lambeau Leap!

Point Beach was early season chilly, but beautiful! 

Wine tasting at von Stiehl Winery in Algoma

This spring has been very rainy and, early on, it was pretty cool. We planted the garden during the last few days of May once the frost danger ended, and have only had to water a couple of times since due to all the storms and rain over the last month.  Nearly all of the plants seem to be doing great, and we really have a handle this year on the weed management and garden plot set up (thanks to my UW-Extension gardening courses!).  This year we have: onions, lettuce, kale, redskin potatoes, bell peppers, hot peppers, winter and summer squash, tomatoes, and peas.  So far, so good!  It should be about another month before we have veggies.  So hard to be patient!

Early stages of the garden- mid-June

Also looking forward to getting to some Bullfrogs baseball games soon- we haven't made it out yet, but hopefully schedules will settle in here and the excessive rain will stop...and we can get in some nice evenings at the ballpark.

The other season of Door County

We had an ice fishing charter trip planned up in Door County for the first weekend in March (which is normally a fine time for such a trip), but the weather conditions this winter did not support much ice coverage in most places that normally see pretty good conditions.  Many events in the region, such as the Battle on the Bago ice fishing tournament and the famous American Birkebeiner cross county ski race up in Hayward, were uncharacteristically canceled this year.  So naturally, but not unexpectedly, our ice fishing trip was also cancelled the the week of the trip.

Nonetheless, we went up to Door County anyway since the plans and lodging were already in place. Overall it was a great time to visit with reduced crowds and traffic, but many stores, restaurants, and farm stands were (of course) closed for the season.  The weather was mostly cloudy, but very tolerable in the upper 30s and low 40s.

We started our visit at Cave Point County Park and Whitefish Dunes State Park for some hiking.  Both sites had really limited ice coverage as compared to even the last couple of years we have been here.  There were not too many people out compated to summertime- we even were able to walk on the beach at Whitefish where the ice shoves normally would be piled high by now.

Cave Point County Park

Whitefish Dunes State Park 

Anyone want to take a dip in Lake Michigan?  Icy water!

Next we stopped at Stone's Throw Winery for a tasting, a new winery for us.  Their grapes are mostly sourced from California, so they have a lot of the drier wines that Scott likes.  It was a neat winery in an old barn, and a nice property.  They have boccie ball courts and a pizzeria that are open in the summertime.  We then stopped for some delicious sandwiches at Coyote Roadhouse right on Kangaroo Lake, the largest interior lake in Door County.

Stone's Throw Winery near Bailey's Harbor

Next up was Door County Brewing Company in Bailey's Harbor- a favorite for Scott!  They were actually quite busy and we had to use overflow parking.  While we were there, we started planning out the rest of the day- I discovered that there was an Aldo Leopold Weekend reading event of A Sand County Almanac at The Ridges Sanctuary just down the street.  Although we've been by the visitor center a number of times, we had never stopped in to see the nature center, so it was a good excuse.  We enjoyed the nature center and store, and then popped into the reading event, intending to stay for about 15 minutes, but stayed over an hour until the end.  Good thing we did because the last reader became a bit emotional and grabbed me in the front row to finish his reading for him.  We will definitely be back later in the year to walk the trails!

Door County Brewing Company, Bailey's Harbor

We checked in to our condo at The Landing Resort in Egg Harbor, which was very nice (and the off season price was too).  We had a view of the woods and a nice living room and kitchenette.  We ventured out after dark for dinner intending to hit up a restaurant that was supposed to be open for the off-season, but it was closed so we went with Wild Tomato as an alternative for pizza.  We got there late enough that there was some seating, and the wood fired pizza hit the spot!

The next morning, we were off to the famous Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant for breakfast and lucked out that there was immediate seating- we were also lucky they were open because they had been closed the previous week for renovations.  Lingonberry tea and eggs benedict, as usual!  Next up was a quick ride through Peninsula State Park, one of the hottest spots in Door County in season, but very quiet this time of the year.  Half of the park roads are closed for winter (including the area where the lighthouse is located), so we just auto-toured and stopped a few times to check things out. Two more winery stops, Harbor Ridge Winery and Simon Creek Vineyard & Winery, proved to be the best ones of the trip!  Harbor Ridge actually has a cheese tasting shop right next door- yum!  After tasting some award-winning cheeses from Wisconsin, your standards will be high enough that other cheeses will just not suffice.  Expensive habit, but we did buy a small piece of merlot cheese that was too good to pass up.  Simon Creek actually had some of their vineyards on site, so it reminded me of a lot of wineries I have been to in Pennsylvania and Virginia.

Eagle Panorama Overlook, Peninsula State Park- open water in the distance

Cheese tasting, anyone?  We tasted a couple of the world champions inside! 

Last stop of the trip was a 3 mile hike at Potawatomi State Park from the campground up to the viewing tower (which is closed) and back.  We didn't see another person- or any wildlife, other than tracks. A nice solitude winter hike to enjoy a quiet park.  The overnight trip provided a great chance to visit our parks and check out lots of new places!  Until next time...

 Ice Age Trail in winter

Sturgeon Bay still looking frozen, but lots of cracks and thin ice visible