Muddy Mississippi

We were looking for a quick summer weekend trip to a new place and settled on a visit to the southwestern part of Wisconsin.  There were a few parks in the area that we wanted to see and thought it would be a nice change of scenery to visit the Mississippi River region.  We took the day off and headed out on Friday morning making our way through a heavy downpour to the southwest.  By the time we reached our lunch rest stop at Vintage Brewing in Sauk City, the rain had slowed to a drizzle.  We enjoyed a nice lunch and beers and stopped at a park alongside the Wisconsin River in neighboring Prairie du Sac.  From there, we followed a winding country highway alongside the river heading downstream.  Just in time, the sun finally started to come out.  Upon arrival at Prairie du Chien (chien is French for dog), where the Wisconsin River empties into the Mississippi River, we stopped at the Fort Crawford Museum to tour the exhibits at the former site of a pre-Civil War fort established by Colonial settlers.  Much of the fort is no longer there, but there were some interesting exhibits about the history of the site and region, including many on medical advancements since a famous military surgeon, Dr. William Beaumont, was stationed at the fort and conducted many long-term medical research projects (and also he interestingly did a stint at Fort Howard in Green Bay).

Fort Crawford Museum, Prairie du Chien

After the museum, we headed to Wyalusing State Park to do some hiking and check out some scenic views or the river.  The weather was pretty hot so we kept our hikes short, but enjoyed the views (and some trains passing by down along the river) and also stopped to see the monument to the passenger pigeon.  I was excited to see it as recognition of the human caused demise (extinction) of a species that used to be extremely common throughout the Midwest.  Conservationist Aldo Leopold was present at the dedication of this monument and offered his words at the unveiling, now captured in his essay On a Monument to the Pigeon.  Dr. Stan Temple gave some moving words at the rededication of the monument in 2014 for some more context (read more here).  We were surprised that despite the Friday late afternoon visit that we pretty much had the place to ourselves and rarely saw anyone else.

Passenger pigeon monument at Wyalusing State Park

Views from Wyalusing State Park- Wisconsin River delta as it flows into the Upper Mississippi River

After refueling and stopping for some snacks, we headed across the bridge over the Mississippi River to Marquette, Iowa and to our hotel for the weekend.  Marquette was a pretty small, quaint riverside fishing and waterway shipping village where most attractions were really close by. Including a paddleboat casino!

Casino Queen riverboat, Marquette, Iowa

The next morning, we took a short walk along the river and saw a huge purple martin colony.  Next we drove up the road a few miles to Effigy Mounds National Monument.  We enjoyed a nice hike along the North Unit of the property and learned about effigy mounds that were built by Woodland Indians (hunter-gatherer tribes) who relied on these lands from around 800-1,400 years ago.  The mounds are a few feet tall- earlier versions were conical and later developed to formation in the likeness of an animal- often bears.  These mounds were very common in southern Wisconsin and neighboring states, and were believed to be related to spiritual ceremonies and group identification, as well as burial structures. Unfortunately a lot of them have been destroyed as a result of development and land use practices. The park had some areas mowed around the mounds to get a good view, but it was easy to see how they could be missed if not clearly defined.  Definitely a good learning (and nature) experience.

Effigy Mounds National Monument, Harper's Ferry, Iowa

After the hike, we stopped at Old Man River Restaurant and Brewery in neighboring McGregor, Iowa.  It turns out there was a car show going on so the touristy town was bustling, but we had no problem getting a patio seat and enjoyed a nice lunch and beers.  Later, we stopped in a couple of antique shops back in Marquette and visited Eagles Landing Winery for some wine and music (excellent peach wine slushy!).  Later that evening, we had a very nice sunset boat ride with live bluegrass music on the river with Maiden Voyage Tours.  We saw several sites from the water, learned about shipping of cargo (mostly grain) on the river, and lots of bald eagles and other birds.  The sunset was pretty awesome too.

Pontoon sunset cruise on the Upper Mississippi River- Wisconsin/Iowa border

So many bald eagles! And a beautiful sunset.

On Sunday morning, we opted for a hike on the South Unit of Effigy Mounds National Monument to the Marching Bear Group of mounds (for an aerial view).  This unit is less often visited as compared to the North Unit, but was an enjoyable hike up the hill and we got to see some bird-shaped mounds as part of that larger complex of bears.  Not many other people around  After the hike, we started making our way back northwest, stopping in Madison (Wisconsin's state capital) for beers at Youngblood Beer Company right downtown and lunch at Scott's favorite Chinese place Ichiban Sichuan Restaurant.  Nice weekend trip- the ol' Upper Mississippi did not disappoint!

Marching Bear Group on the South Unit at Effigy Mounds National Monument

Drinks on the patio checking out the State Capitol, Madison

Soo-perior September

Year 8(!) of the Superior September tradition rolled around again and it was time to get back to The Big Lake (on Twitter, Lake Superior is the GLOAT- Greatest Lake of All Time).  Every year since we have lived in Wisconsin, we take a fall weekend trip to explore the Lake Superior shoreline at a different spot.  This year, it was time for the eastern Upper Peninsula of Michigan to visit Sault (pronounced SOO) St. Marie and Whitefish Bay.  We even saw Canada (socially distanced!).

We got ourselves together and headed up to the UP on the first Friday of October.  It was a nice fall day and we had to stop for some patio drinks at Upper Hand Brewery in Escanaba, MI.  The drive north takes us up the full length of the bay of Green Bay, then east along the north shore of Lake Michigan proper, and then north across the peninsula to the town of Brimley where we would be staying on the Superior shoreline.  We arrived to our rental just as it was getting dark to check in.  Next was a whitefish Friday night fish fry at a bar across the street called the Cozy Inn.  Food was great and we caught it just in time before the kitchen closed.  Time to rest up for touristy fun and adjust to the temporary return to the Eastern Time Zone.

Saturday morning, we headed east about 20 minutes to the city of Sault St. Marie, MI.  Here, the St. Mary's River separates Michigan from Ontario, Canada, and is the only route for ships (Great Lakes ships are called "Lakers" whereas rarer ships coming from sea are called "Salties") to enter or depart the waters of Lake Superior.  We started with Original Soo Locks Boat Tours to experience the Soo Locks, the engineering marvel that allows these ships to traverse around the St. Mary's Rapids.  Ships have to rise or drop about 20 ft. while in the lock depending on the direction they are heading all based on a gate system and gravity/natural movement of water.  Smaller vessels can traverse the locks (including our tour boat), but the big draw are the hundreds to thousand-foot freighters and superlakers that come through the locks, sometimes with only 2 ft. of clearance between the vessel and walls of the lock.  The US Army Corps of Engineers has a visitor center and observation platform there where people can watch the ships pass though up close. 

Our boat tour moved upbound through the Locks and took a big loop around the Upper St. Mary's River looking at some landmarks including a historic hydroelectric power plant, a new, bigger lock under construction, and Algoma Steel production industrial site on the Canadian side.  We then returned downbound through the locks and toured the Canadian side of the river, which Scott commented looked a lot like Europe.  Due to COVID travel restrictions, we were not allowed to enter Canada (there is a vehicle bridge over the St. Mary's) without producing a negative test, so we had to settle for a distant view and a few waves to (presumably) Canadians while the tour passed by the sister city of Sault St. Marie, ON.  We also had to scramble a couple of times to turn our phones off since we were close enough to ping off Canadian cell towers!

Original Soo Locks Boat Tour dock

St Mary's Falls Hydroelectric Power Plant

Traversing the Soo Locks upbound (up to Lake Superior)

Algoma Steel in Ontario

Lock gates closing while traversing downbound to St. Mary's River level

The Soo Locks staff has the logistical challenge to manage both up and downbound traffic through the same locks and which lock a ship uses depending on availability and total length of the ship.  In the upper photo, the Laker in the background is in the Poe Lock and the tour boat in the foreground is in the shorter MacArthur Lock.

After the boat tour, we had to have lunch at Soo Locks Brewing Company of course and enjoyed sandwiches and brews on the patio.  Next we checked out the Soo Locks Visitor Center and watched some ships using the Locks.  It was kind of addicting at times to just "wait for one more."  It took each ship about 30 minutes or so to navigate through, but it was cool to watch them rise and fall and see the crews working.  Rain was in the forecast so we headed to the Museum Ship Valley Camp, a floating museum located right on a retired freighter.  Several floors of Great Lakes maritime exhibits kept us busy while it rained pretty hard.  A stop at Superior Coast Brewery for drinks rounded out the day in Sault St. Marie.  We swung by Superior Pizza and Subs in Brimley on the way back to the rental to take out a pizza for dinner, which was incredible!  Turns out it was their last weekend open for the season, so we lucked out.

Museum Ship Valley Camp

It rained most of the night and was expected to continue off and on through Sunday.  In the morning, we took an auto tour to the west along the Whitefish Bay National Forest Scenic Byway along Lake Superior and through and the Bay Mills Indian Community.  We stopped by Point Iroquois Lighthouse, several overlooks and beaches along Lake Superior, and at Mission Hill Cemetery and Overlook above Spectacle and Monocle Lakes.  Next was a short walk around part of Monocle Lake and through the campground which was closed for the season.  The weather was still iffy so we didn't want to start a longer hike as originally planned.  We went back to Superior Pizza for a quick ice cream snack and then back to Sault St. Marie in the afternoon to watch some more ships at the visitor center.  I didn't realize there is a fairly large Amish community also in that area of the UP and the drive was scenic through many farms.  We took a spin through some gift shops and had dinner at Maloney's Alley Irish Pub before calling it a night.

Point Iroquois Lighthouse

Whitefish Bay, Hiawatha National Forest

Spectacle Lake, from Mission Point Cemetery & Overlook, Bay Mills Indian Community

Monday morning was cloudy but at least the rain had stopped.  We packed up and hit the road to start making our way back.  Our waylay on the return trip was a couple of stops near Manistique, MI on Lake Michigan- Seul Choix Point Lighthouse (pronounced "Sis-shwa" or "Only Choice" in French) and Kitch-iti-kipi or Big Spring located at Palms Book State Park.  The lighthouse, said to be haunted, had closed to the public for the seasonal tours but had some decorations outside for their big Halloween haunted tours later in the month.  Very cool (and windy!) spot that we had entirely to ourselves.  Big Spring is an extremely clear and consistent temperature pool with a raft (including a glass window on the bottom) that visitors can pull along the surface to check out the springs and the fish and wildlife.  Luckily we caught it an off time since it was mid-morning on Monday- it was definitely really unique and worth seeing, but I imagine the lines get very long to load the packed raft with tourists.  We even had a few dogs that rode the raft with their people and of course didn't get along with each other in those cramped quarters.  We stopped in Escanaba and picked up Dobber's Pasties (pronounced PAST ees- think portable chicken pot pie) for lunch, which we ate at a roadside picnic area on the bay of Green Bay enjoying a more little beach time.

Seul Choix Point Lighthouse

Kitch-iti-kipi. Palms Book State Park

 

Another great trip to the Yoop and successful Soo-perior September adventure. 

*On the lands of the Bay Mills Indian Community, and Odawa and Anishinaabe peoples:  https://native-land.ca/ 

No Coat November

We thought the camping season was over with our late season trip up to the Porkies, but Mother Nature gave us a treat in early November that could not be missed.  Record breaking warmth- multiple days with highs in the 60s (and lows in the mid-40s!!) arrived during the first week of November.  That week would have been one of my busiest field work weeks of the year with our annual wild rice seeding, but we moved it up this year for, get this...better weather.  Very funny to miss it by a week.  Yes, it was colder the week before when we seeded, but at least there was no ice!

The first weekend in November presented an opportunity for some recreation and excellent camping weather with temperatures more like September than November.  We decided to head up the road to Door County with bikes and camping gear for a last hurrah.  The first stop was a 12 mile bike ride on the Ahnapee State Trail, a rail to trail which we haven't visited in quite awhile.  It was odd to be riding in a thin long sleeved t-shirt with all the leaves down, but it was great- not too many people on the trail and great views throughout.  After biking, we visited Bridge Up Brewing and Sonny's Pizza in Sturgeon Bay for a beverage on the patio and take out Greek deep dish pizza, which was excellent.  Also caught the draw bridge going up for a boat to pass through!  We arrived at the Peninsula State Park Tennison Bay campground next, and there was no problem getting a walk up campsite for 2 nights- and in fact, we pretty much had the immediate area to ourselves.  A camping dream come true!  That was also a little weird given that Peninsula is the most visited state park in Wisconsin and the hundreds of campsites are usually completely full throughout the summer.  Navigating the "winter camping" procedures was a little more challenging (self-registering, which restrooms are open, where to get the heated "winter water"), but it got sorted out eventually.  Of course the sun sets at about 4:15 PM, so we got things set up and took a quick ride down to the bay to watch the sunset, then it was dinner and campfire in the dark before early bedtime.  It was very comfortable sleeping with such nice temperatures, but we did have some raccoon visitors to the campsite who tried to open the truck cap to no avail!

Pizza and brews in Sturgeon Bay

Tennison Bay campground and sunset over Green Bay, Peninsula State Park

The next day we hit the bike trail along the Sunset Bike Route in the morning to get ahead of any crowds.  It was fantastic- nearly no one else encountered on the trails, gorgeous views, and a little bit of challenging hilly terrain (yes, flatlanders say things like that!).  We stopped in at the Eagle Bluff lighthouse on the route, which was boarded up for the season.  After biking we stopped at the newly constructed accessible observation tower (which Scott had a hand in acquiring the wood to build through his work) and took a ride further north on "the Island" (we previously learned this is local vernacular for the Door Peninsula north of Sturgeon Bay, which is technically an island because you have to cross a bridge over the shipping channel).  We stopped at Island Orchard Cider's takeout window to buy a few bottles of very delicious hard cider made from apples from Washington Island.  So good!  Next was a walk at The Nature Conservancy's Mink River Estuary Preserve, which we passed haphazardly but had never been to before.  We weren't really prepared and didn't know where exactly to go, but it was a nice hike anyway and we saw a few people out on the trails.  Next was a beer break at Door County Brewing Company over on the lake side (Lake Michigan proper) in Bailey's Harbor.  Interestingly, the weather was much cooler and cloudy over there (lake effect clouds), which really dropped the temperature for sitting comfortably outside.  They did have a nice fire going so that helped a little.  One group of bikers were in shorts and were absolutely freezing so they didn't stay long.  After a bit, we picked up takeout dinner from our favorite restaurant Coyote Roadhouse and took sandwiches back to the campsite for early dinner.  Another sunset, and another long dark night (with less raccoon activity).

Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, Peninsula State Park

Nicolet Bay, Peninsula State Park

Sunset at Tennison Bay, Green Bay, Lake Michigan

One of the interesting experiences camping at Peninsula was the habituated wildlife.  These are packed campgrounds and the wildlife seems to know that people are suckers for feeding them or they can easily steal food and trash.  Before we left, one of the resident turkeys literally walked right up to us, and got really excited when I moved a grocery bag around thinking I was feeding him.  I had to chase him off to get him away from the truck.  A red breasted nuthatch also flew up to me and landed right on my finger the day before (Snow White moment!), and several chickadees hung around regularly.  While it's cool to see wildlife up close, this is a bad sign for the animals.  They become so dependent on people that they don't learn to take care of themselves.  Plus it's dangerous such that they could unintentionally hurt someone or be hurt themselves.  I hope they make it through the tough winter.

Tennison Bay campground's way too friendly turkey.

The next morning, it was up early to pack up and head home.  What a nice reprieve and a more positive camping trip for the end of the season!

On the tribal lands of the Pottawatomi, Menominee, and Odawa peoples. https://native-land.ca/ 

Porcupine Mountains

Despite the craziness of this year, another September rolled around and it was time to continue our fall tradition of visiting Lake Superior (i.e., Superior September).  It started unintentionally with some early tourist visits during our first few years in the area, and now it can't be missed.  This was the 7th Annual Superior September trip- hard to believe!

Camping was the name of the game this year due to COVID, so the Porcupine Mountains in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan were on tap.  Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park (locally referred to as "the Porkies") is a wilderness area in the western part of the UP of Michigan.  Designated wilderness describes an expansive roadless area where only light impact outdoor recreation (and non-motorized) is permitted in order to promote solitude and protect the natural resources.  The Porkies are located in a remote portion of Michigan as well, so we had planned to bring all of our food and mostly just relax and enjoy the sights and sounds as a last hurrah before winter.

I found out that Porcupine Mountains is also a frequently visited park despite it's remoteness- especially this year when everyone decided to go camping.  The only time I could reserve two nights at a campsite during a period that worked for us was beginning on Sunday, October 11.  Usually that second weekend in October is your last somewhat reasonable option to get to the northern climes before winter weather becomes a factor.  I jumped immediately when I saw there was one campsite left at the campground that was right on Lake Superior!!  Considering the late season, I remember thinking this is either going to be really awesome or I'm going to regret it...

We decided to extend the trip to one night earlier (Saturday) by booking a campsite in the Northern Highlands- American Legion State Forest in northern Wisconsin.  This way we already had the park pass for WI state parks and would be in a good position to get to the Porkies earlier the next day.  We got a later start from home thanks to a mouse in the garage situation, but the day was nice and sunny with pretty mild temperatures.  The leaves along our route north and west were absolutely fantastic- probably just at or just past peak.  We made a couple of stops to drop off some things to Scott's coworker, fill up on gas, and grab some last minute supplies before heading to the campground.  While in Woodruff we stopped at Rocky Reef Brewing Company for a drink on the patio.  Our campsite was located only a few miles away on Carrol Lake, which according to the state forest website was a great area for fishing.  We also had a campsite right on the lake which was beautiful.  We cooked a pasta dinner and enjoyed a campfire (and impromptu concert from the next campsite- which was really good, actually) before bed.  Temperatures dipped into the upper 30s and it was moderately windy, but it was comfortable with our winter bags.  The next morning we had breakfast, packed up the site, and Scott did some fishing before we hit the road.

Carrol Lake Campground, Northern Highlands- American Legion State Forest, Woodruff, WI

Photo by Scott

Carrol Lake. Woodruff, WI

Next we made our way to Ironwood, MI the last town we would encounter before the Porkies.  We also stopped for a patio drink at Cold Iron Brewing- great berry shandy!  There wasn't much around as far as local restaurants so we brought camping food in to make lunch.  Then it was on our way to the Porkies and into Eastern Time (i.e., "real time").  We hit the Visitor Center first to get some information and a map and viewed their exhibits.  One described how Aldo Leopold, a prominent figure in the conservation world, advocated for this area to be designated wilderness for the American people in his essay The Last Stand.  Pretty cool.

We stopped at an outpost to buy firewood and arrived at the campground to set up- it was really busy with check ins.  As we drove in we realized the campground was largely an open field layout without too many trees.  Different, but okay- I was expecting a forest!  We eventually found our campsite right on Superior as described.  The winds were starting to pick up but the temperatures were really mild- in upper 50s and comfortable.  We cooked dinner over the fire and enjoyed that until dark.  Time for showers and bed- definitely listened to Lake Superior all night long.

Union Bay Campground, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Ontonagon, MI

The night for me was kind of restless despite how relatively warm it was because of the loud whipping winds and waves picking up in response and crashing on the shore.  I realized why there aren't many trees in the campground...winds off the lake!  I am pretty sure gusts were upwards of 50 mph at times.  I was in and out of sleep all night.  Then around 7 AM raindrops started to fall as rain was expected for the day.  Moments later, a series of 3 loud booms of thunder and lightning REALLY got us up, out of the tent, and into the truck.  The thunder quieted 15 minutes later but rain and winds remained steady.  After grabbing a quick breakfast, we drove up to Lake of the Clouds, the signature viewing area of the park.  As we approached, signs posted indicating a crowded area ahead and long wait to see the views.  Luckily, that wasn't a problem due to the weather, but they must have been experiencing high volumes of leaf peepers in recent days.  The leaves were still beautiful, even in the rain.  When we got to the viewpoints, the winds were ripping pretty ferociously and rain was pelting us sideways in the face.  Surprisingly, our photos turned out pretty good despite how wild it was! As we were heading back to the truck, the rains really let loose.  Despite wearing rain jackets, we were soaked.  

Lake of the Clouds, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park

We returned to the campsite and asked for the weather report at the check in station since we couldn't get data service on our phones.  Rain all day, which was also confirmed by my dad via text.  We sat in the truck for awhile and debated what to do.  We had the campsite for another night, but we were already soaked and expecting 6 more hours of the same.  We wouldn't have enough time once it ended this evening for a hike as we had planned to do for the day, and no way to dry clothes and other gear.  Based on the forecast, we probably would have a hard time getting a fire going for dinner as planned too.  Also there wasn't much to do for indoor alternatives in the area instead, plus of course COVID.  The winds were still pretty wild and we had to jump out of the truck and into the rain a few times to hold onto the tent as it bent over sideways.  So, we made the tough decision to leave early and make our way home.  We were both so disappointed, but it seemed like a better option than being miserable for most of the day.  It rained the entire 4 hour drive home too.  At least we got to see the Porkies, although hiking will have to wait for another time.  

A memorable Superior September indeed.  Northern Wisconsin just received snow a few days after we visited!  The Lake does it's own thing, and you can take it or leave it.  That was my first time leaving a camping trip early and now our second trip of the year (2 out of 2) that was shortened due to weather issues (Winter escape that went south).  

"To those devoid of imagination a blank place on the map is a useless waste: to others, the most valuable part. " - Aldo Leopold, Conservation Esthetic, A Sand County Almanac

The Porcupine Mountains are located on the tribal lands of the Anishinaabe people (Lake Superior Chippewa).