Yankee Southern Transplants in the Upper Midwest: From Green Bay to Big Bay

I was doing some research about places to see in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan (attached to Wisconsin, just to our north) and learned there is a bed and breakfast in a LIGHTHOUSE- naturally, Lake Superior was calling and we just HAD to go! I had to book a couple months in advance to get a room for the weekend (only 7 available), so we made plans over the summer for mid-September.

We took the day off on Friday and headed 3 hours north, eyes peeled for moose (none spotted). The weekend was abnormally warm (80 degrees F), although mostly cloudy. We made it to Ishpeming, MI for lunch and ate takeout and had beers at Cognition Brewing Company, the only microbrewery we had yet to visit in the area since our trip last summer. Next we headed out on the scenic route to Big Bay, about 30 miles northwest of Marquette (the largest city in the UP with a whopping 20,000 people and a university). We look the longer way to Big Bay on an improved gravel road, which was very pretty but a little confusing because apparently the Yoopers don't care for road signs of any kind. A lot of the roads up there are quite remote (no cell service either) and lack signage of any kind, so you have to sort of figure it out. Plus, the maps aren't always detailed enough and Googlemaps can't help. After stopping at a waterfall that we couldn't find and ending up at the Eagle Mine by accident (we thought about asking the guy in the booth at the gate for directions), we eventually made it to the Big Bay Lighthouse B&B and checked in for the weekend.

The lighthouse was built in 1896 and was in operation until the 1940s, followed by varied ownership (including a stint from the Army) until it was eventually made into a private residence and then a bed and breakfast in the 1980s. The long-time owners greeted us upon arrival, gave us a tour and brief history, and lots of suggestions of things to do in the bustling Big Bay (pop 265). You may know of the book and movie (1959) Anatomy of a Murder, which is based on a true story of a murder in the Lumberjack Tavern in Big Bay. Many local sites, including the Thunder Bay Tavern down the street, were featured in the film. For fun, you can eat dinner at the Lumberjack Inn and lay down on the floor in the outline of the body. We did not do that.

Friday night means fish fry in the Upper Midwest, so we hit up the Hungry Hollow Cafe "downtown" (about 3 miles from the lighthouse) to eat with the locals. Big Bay was once home to a large sawmill and a Brunswick bowling alley factory, not to mention the nearby mining activity, so there is an interesting history there. Night lighthouse viewing and listening to Lake Superior through the open window were the evening activities. The lighthouse was really charming, so nicely decorated, and the amenities were spot on. Scott enjoyed the sauna in the light tower and the towel warmer in the bathroom! Legend has it that the lighthouse is haunted by the first keeper who allegedly committed suicide in the woods. No paranormal activity to report.

On Saturday, we ate breakfast in the dining room with the other guests and had a delicious meal (cottage cheese pancakes, pumpkin muffins, and all the fixings) and conversation with the other guests. After that, we visited the recommended Thomas Rock Overlook, which was an easy hike and very nice view of the bay of Big Bay and some of the local landmarks. We spent the rest of the day in Marquette to visit the farmers' market, revisit to Ore Dock Brewing Company, check out the Northern Michigan University Beaumier UP Heritage Center to see a conservation exhibit, and stop by Presque Isle Park to take a frigid dip in Lake Superior. So refreshing! We had dinner back in Big Bay at the Thunder Bay Inn (the movie set for Anatomy of a Murder), watched the sunset from the lighthouse tower, and then the flies chased us inside for the evening. I was disappointed to miss the northern lights while we were there, since it was cloudy both nights and not good viewing. Of course, before we went and since then aurora viewing has been great!

Sunday morning brought a light thunderstorm (neat to see the lightning over the lake) before another delicious breakfast (eggs florentine, bacon, and banana choc chip muffins!). Most of the other guests had long drives ahead and took off right after breakfast- we were actually the closest to home of everyone staying for the weekend. We walked the grounds a bit before heading back to Marquette on our drive home. We stopped at Sugarloaf Mountain for a short hike to the viewpoint, which was a little foggy, but just as pretty as it was last time. We headed back into town for a last beer at Blackrocks Brewery, and a stop at the Da Yooper Tourist Trap in Ishpeming, which was SO entertaining with outdoor exhibits of real things that Yoopers invented, funny signs, and a really neat gift shop with tons of unique items. They have the largest working chainsaw and largest working gun on display, and lots of homebuild vehicles. After that, the ride home commenced...while keeping eyes peeled for moose (none spotted).

Another fun weekend up at da UP! Always nice to get back into the "real" time zone (i.e., eastern time) again. We give 'em an hour when we head up, but we always get it back on the way home- lucky us!